Kashmir is often remembered for its lakes, gardens and beautiful valleys. But look beyond them, and another Kashmir appears — a land shaped and guarded by mountains.
The Pir Panjal forms the great mountain wall to the south. The Zabarwan Range rises behind Srinagar. Farther into the valley stand magnificent peaks such as Harmukh and Kolahoi, while around Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg the mountains become increasingly dramatic.
Some have glaciers.
Some have forests and meadows.
Some are associated with ancient legends.
And some quietly give birth to the rivers that sustain the valley below.
A few mountains to look for
Harmukh — one of Kashmir's most striking peaks, rising above the landscape near the north of the Valley.
Kolahoi — the highest peak in the Kashmir Valley, rising to about 5,425 metres. Its glaciers are important sources for the Lidder River system.
Apharwat — the mountain above Gulmarg, reaching about 4,390 metres.
Pir Panjal — not one mountain but a major Himalayan range, forming a dramatic southern boundary to the Kashmir Valley.
Zabarwan — the range immediately associated with the Srinagar landscape, rising behind Dal Lake.
Thajiwas — the spectacular glacier-and-mountain landscape near Sonamarg.
And this is only the beginning.
We have looked at Kashmir's waters. Now let us look up at the mountains that surround them.
The lakes may make us stop and look down. The mountains make us look up.
Kashmir — Mountains and the People Who Live Among Them
Kashmir is famous for its lakes and gardens, but look beyond the waters and you find a dramatic mountain world.
The Pir Panjal, Zabarwan, Harmukh, Kolahoi, Apharwat and the mountains around Pahalgam and Sonamarg are not merely beautiful scenery. They are living landscapes, home to forests, wildlife, shepherds and mountain communities.
The great mountains
Pir Panjal
This vast mountain range forms the southern wall of the Kashmir Valley. For centuries it was one of the great natural gateways into Kashmir. Its passes connected the Valley with the plains and with neighbouring regions.
Harmukh
Rising to about 5,142 metres, Harmukh is one of Kashmir's most magnificent peaks. It stands near the Gangabal area and has a special place in Kashmiri tradition. Its snow-covered summit, glaciers and alpine surroundings make it one of the Valley's unforgettable mountains.
Kolahoi
At about 5,425 metres, Kolahoi is the highest peak in the Kashmir Valley. Its glaciers feed streams that become part of the Lidder River system. It is sometimes called the Goddess of Light—a beautiful name for a mountain that catches the morning and evening sun.
Apharwat
Above Gulmarg, Apharwat rises to around 4,390 metres. Its upper slopes remain snow-covered for much of the year. In summer, the landscape changes completely, with alpine meadows replacing the winter snow.
Zabarwan
The Zabarwan Range forms the dramatic backdrop to Srinagar. From these mountains, the Valley opens out below—one reason Srinagar's landscape has such a distinctive character.
Sonamarg and Thajiwas
Here the mountains become more rugged and glacial. The Thajiwas Glacier lies amid high peaks and meadows, while the Sind River cuts through the valley.
And who lives in these mountains?
The answer is fascinating.
The Gujjar and Bakarwal communities have traditionally followed a seasonal way of life in the mountains. Many are pastoralists, moving with their sheep, goats, buffaloes and other livestock between winter and summer pastures.
When the warmer months arrive, families and their animals move upwards towards the alpine meadows. As winter approaches, they descend again.
Their lives therefore follow the rhythm of the mountains—snow, melting, grass, water and seasons.
They are friendly and tourist helpers they will guide you give you rides on their pony and show you important sights. They are tracking guides too and know the region well.
But they are not the only inhabitants.
The forests shelter Himalayan black bears, brown bears, leopards, musk deer and Himalayan langurs, while the higher slopes provide habitat for remarkable mountain birds and other wildlife.
And then there is something even more beautiful:
The mountains themselves are part of the life of Kashmir.
Some mountains have caves and can accommodate nearly 300 goats during bad weather.
They hold the snow that becomes water.
The water feeds the rivers.
The rivers feed the Valley.
The forests hold the soil.
And the meadows feed the animals.
So when we look at Kashmir's mountains, we are not looking at empty wilderness.
We are looking at a living world—with people, animals, forests, glaciers and rivers, all connected by the mountain.
Sonamarg was something else altogether. Covered in snow, it did not look like an ordinary snow-covered landscape. Here and there, tiny patches of vegetation showed through the white, catching the light like little decorations scattered over a gigantic Christmas tree. The whole mountain seemed to sparkle in countless little places.
It was one of those sights that was easier to experience than to describe—a vast white mountain, yet delicate and almost festive in its appearance. Even today, the memory is clearer than any photograph could capture.
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